As the oldest manufacturing industry in the country, Indian textiles enjoys a vast diversity. And while some weaves are fairly well-known, there are some that are only now finding a mention in the mainstream discourse on textiles.
- The tribal communities in the state weave their own textiles, including the Apatani tribe.
- Eponymous(as named after the Apatani tribe) cotton weave has nature-inspired geometric designs, with blue, red and yellow-ish orange being the predominant colours.
- The fabric is generally used to weave shawls known as jig-jiro and jilan or jackets called supun tarii.
- Literally meaning“oily handkerchief”.
- The textile is a double ikat weave.
- The yarn is treated with oil and castor ash to help it retain its colour—hence the name.
- Each of the warp and weft yarns—which can be cotton or silk—are tied to the loom precisely before weaving.
- Usually, only three colours—red, white and black—are used to create geometric motifs.
- It is so wispy and airy that it is hard to believe that the Kota Doria is woven from both silk and cotton.
- It's fine check pattern comes in various sizes, with each square known as khat.
- It’s usually made up of 14 yarns, eight of cotton and six of silk, woven in a translucent way.
- They can also be printed upon or embellished with zari.
- Ultra-fine, the Venkatagiri sari—which gets its name from the town it originated in.
- It uses cotton and silk woven in a jamdani weave.
- Like the Gadwal sari, the body is of cotton and the borders of zari.
- The woven motifs are inspired by nature but are executed in a precise and distinctive fashion.
- One of the more utilitarian weaves, the Kunbi gets its name from one of the oldest communities in Goa.
- Woven from cotton, it comes in a simple check pattern, with different colour borders.
- Speciality of kunbi: Is the bright colour palette of red, yellow and green, all symbolic of the different stages of life.
- Among Odisha’s wide variety of textiles, the Bomkai—which gets its name from the village it is woven in.
- It stands out for its extra weft(crosswire threads).
- The jala weaving technique results in the Bomkai’s ikat design.
- The initial designs are embroidered with thread on a frame and then interwoven with the ikat pattern on the loom.
- The textile is woven in both cotton and silk, with motifs inspired from nature.
- Famous for its check patterns, the Koorainadu sari—which originated in a Tamil Nadu village of the same name.
- It is the go-to ensemble for Hindu Tamilian brides.
- The sari is woven from silk and mercerized cotton yarn.
- The warp and weft alternate between silk and cotton in a ratio of 2:1, which gives the textile its sheen.
- This durable silk textile from Assam, one of the costliest silks, is woven in a jacquard technique.
- The lustre increases with every wash. The woven motifs, mostly geometric, differ from one tribe to another.
- The fabric is usually used to make women’s garments, like the mekhela-chador and saris.
- This textile comes from the Lepchas, one of the three predominant tribes in Sikkim.
- Traditionally, it was woven with nettle yarn but is now spun from cotton and wool too.
- The cotton is used as a base to weave the wool in different geometric motifs in white, red, green and black colours.
- The textile is traditionally woven by women and is used to make women’s coats. Now accessories such as bags are also made from it.
- One of the most difficult weaving techniques.
- Kashmiri kani work is usually seen in pashmina shawls.
- The intricate colour patterns seen in the flora and fauna motifs are woven separately from multiple yarn bobbins, one for each colour, using the interlocking twill tapestry technique.
- The cotton textile, which means “cloth”, is popular among Mizo women, and is particularly popular during festivals and special occasions.
- While the body is usually white, the pattern is in red, green and black.
- The weaving technique gives the cloth a raised, ribbed effect.
Also read: National Commission For Scheduled Tribes
Image Source: The Textile Atlas